Maybe it was because I had been wanting to try Toki Underground but was dissuaded by the 1 1/2 hour wait. Maybe it was that H &pizza has been hyped beyond belief. Either way, I ended up just a little bit disappointed after visiting on Sunday.
The concept is fantastic – you choose the dough, sauce, and toppings (or select from suggested combinations), and your creation gets baked and topped before your eyes. The ingredients are innovative and high in quality – think fig marsala, broccolini, and house-made mozzarella. There’s even a Daiya soy cheese option for vegans. Plus, the pizzas are very reasonably priced (around $9), there’s no charge for extra toppings (!), and the whole process is so streamlined that you go from placing your order to food in your mouth in less than 10 minutes.
I ordered the Moonstruck, featuring truffle sauce, mushrooms, fig marsala and chili oil. Sounds great, right? Unfortunately the flavor of the sauce was too mild to carry this pizza, and even sweet figs weren’t enough to rescue it from beige blandness. Moreover, the chili oil seemed to be all oil and no chili, contributing to a soggy, greased up pie.
High hopes for the spicy tomato sauce were dashed as well. A companion’s Farmer’s Daughter pizza, with mozzarella, spinach, eggs, and parmesan, minus the sausage, was unexceptional and also not crispy.
The twice-sauced Jenny (hold the shrimp), on the other hand, had just enough creamy pesto balanced out with tangy tomato sauce, and the crust held up okay. Yum.
H &pizza has lots of potential. If they go easier on the oils and figure out how to get a crispier pie (maybe these two are related), they’ll live up to it!
1118 H St NE