Pizza at Piola is Passable

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Piola pizzeria, with locations literally around the world, opened a new branch recently on 14th Street near Florida in the U Street neighborhood. It looks small from the outside, but opens up to a large ground and second floors along with a back patio.

The menu is extensive and takes some time to get through. We decided to stick to pizzas and ordered 5 for the group, forgoing pastas (pretty standard – pesto, marinara), antipasti and some hearty-sounding salads. Happy hour runs from 5-8 and drink prices including $4 wines and beer apply to people seated for dinner, which was a nice surprise.

In general we found the pizza to be soggy on arrival, even when freshly baked. This was a little disappointing, but there were some high points flavor-wise. Funghi misti (sauteed mixed mushrooms) and parma with roasted eggplant were our favorites, with a good balance of toppings, sauce and cheese.

Mixed mushroom pizza

Funghi misti

The parma was extra saucy and zippy, reminding us eggplant parmesan.

Eggplant pizza

Parma with eggplant

We also tried the quattro formaggi, braccio di ferro with ricotta and spinach, and Miami Beach with fresh mozzarella, arugula and tomatoes.

Everyone agreed that the four cheese pizza was overly salty and rich, maybe as a result of too much brie. We like Paradiso’s version better, where fresh mozzarella tempers the saltier cheeses and gorgonzola and garlic spice things up.

Four cheese pizza

Quattro formaggi

Braccio di ferro was nice, with pillowy mounds of ricotta and sauteed spinach. All it needed was a dash of salt and we were good to go.

Spinach ricotta pizaa

Braccio di ferro

The arugula and tomato pizza was, predictably, a cheese pizza with a salad on it. It’s a tasty salad because you can’t really mess up arugula, but we’d rather go for a real salad and let the pizza be a pizza.

One thing to note is that the ‘individually sized’ pizzas are a bit too big for one person but not enough for two people to share, so get ready for some creative group ordering (maybe throw in pasta or a salad) or leftover boxes.

Boxes in hand, we turned to dessert. We were intrigued by two that promised ‘cookie cups’, which just turn out to be large wafers without much flavor. The chocolate sauce, on the other hand, was rich and tasty, as was the chocolate cake in the torta nera (not shown).

Cookie cup with ice cream

Coppa Piola

With its solid if not exactly crispy pizzas, generous happy hours and portions, and large patio, Piola is a welcome addition to the neighborhood.

2208 14th St NW
202-986-8729

Mari Vanna: A Tragedy of Errors

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During my recent meal at Mari Vanna in Dupont, I ingested a couple of things I definitely did not want (beef and salmon…yeah) and was robbed of items that I actually did want (mushroom blinis and eggplant rolls). Mistaken identity, miscommunications, mayhem…it was almost Shakespearean. With a menu so clearly marked with vegetarian items, how did this happen? Funny you should ask.

We dropped in on a recent Saturday night and were invited to dine at the bar where there was plenty of space. I was excited – the decor was adorably grandma chic with vintage chandeliers and flower-printed seat cushions, interesting flavored vodkas like honey and oats abounded, and our bartender/server seemed enthusiastic and friendly.

For a Russian restaurant, there are a surprising  number of vegetarian dishes, mostly based on mushrooms and potatoes but also some featuring eggplant and beets. We ordered borscht and eggplant rolls to start, then I chose mushroom blinis as my entree.

Oddly, my companion’s entree arrived first along with the borscht. We dug into the steaming soup and I quickly realized that I’d made a mistake: the cold borscht is vegetarian but the hot borscht has beef. My bad, I explained to the server, and he offered to put in an order of the the veggie version.

In the mean time, a plate of eggplant rolls went to the diners seated next to us.  They had ordered a good 20 minutes after us so I was a bit suspicious. I mentioned to the server that we were still waiting for this appetizer (keep in mind that one of our entrees had already appeared). What happened next was this: 1) he asked our neighbors if they had ordered eggplant rolls 2) they said no but had started eating them anyway 3) we proceeded to wait the entire rest of the meal for our order of rolls. Spoiler: they never arrived.

Okay, so now what I assumed to be my borscht had arrived. It was cold and pink, as expected. But definitely not vegetarian. “I’m so sorry!” said our server. “That’s the okroshka with salmon, not cold borscht! I don’t speak Russian so sometimes I confuse the orders”. He graciously took it away and I graciously went back to waiting while pretending I hadn’t put fish in my mouth.

Next arrived my mushroom blini plate. By now I was wary of anything that was placed in front of me so I checked with the server that these were, indeed, filled with mushrooms. Completely inexplicably, his response was to take my plate, put it under the noses of the party next to us, and ask if they had ordered them. More confusion ensued before I finally got the plate back. Starving at this point, I dug in and was eating when the vegetarian borscht arrived. I  moved the blinis over to make space, and the server TOOK MY PARTIALLY-EATEN PLATE AWAY. Two feet away from us, he didn’t hear my and my companion’s loud protestations. It was right then, as I watched my blinis get stacked on a pile of dirty dishes and then disappear, that all my patience and cheer disappeared as well.

Mushroom blinis

Mushroom blinis

The long-awaited cold borscht did not improve my mood. Just because a soup is cold doesn’t mean it can’t have previously been slow-cooked to develop flavor. No such luck here – the beets and broth were as dull in flavor as they were bright in color.

Vegetarian borscht

Vegetarian borscht

With no rolls in sight and no hope for redeeming the meal, we cut our losses, asked for our check, and headed off to find some ice cream.

Walking away, I realized that the worst part of the whole experience was the lack of acknowledgement from the staff that anything had gone wrong. The beef mix-up was my mistake, and okay, sometimes servers take plates away prematurely. But there was no apology for the dish that never arrived, no offer to throw in dessert or take something off of the bill for making a vegetarian bite into salmon. It’s a shame because the infused vodkas are well done and the ambiance is unique (I didn’t even mention the charming accordion player that came out mid-meal). Normally in this situation, with a pleasant atmosphere and cocktails but not-so-nice food and service, I’d say skip the seated dinner and grab a table at the bar. Except we already tried that.

1141 Connecticut Ave NW
(202) 783-7777

The Red Hen: With food this good, why leave the roost?

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The Red Hen in Bloomingdale is red hot right now. But you’d never guess it by walking by or walking in – the atmosphere is relaxed and welcoming even when the dining room is full. And when I called to see if they could fit us on a recent night despite being booked up online, I was graciously accommodated. It turns out there’s also a decent-sized bar area in the center of the restaurant, so if you can’t snag a table you should be able to grab a couple of bar seats on an impromptu visit.

The attentive service continued straight through our meal, with a knowledgeable but unintrusive server who knew when to hold back – I was catching up with a visiting friend- but never left us hanging. We started with smoked ricotta crostini and asparagus soup (yay for vegetable stock!), both of which were excellent. The crostini were slightly smoky, with just the right amount of char from being set on the kitchen’s hearth and a bit of sweetness from balsamic brown butter and truffle honey.

Earthy ricotta crostini

Earthy ricotta crostini

Asparagus soup was surprisingly intense, given that asparagus’ delicate flavor is easily diluted or overpowered. Here it was complemented by salty parmesan and a bit of truffle oil (if we remember correctly) and topped with tender asparagus tips.

Asparagus soup

Asparagus soup

We both ordered the raved-about gnocchi with hazelnut pesto, although fusilli cacio e pepe is also currently available as a vegetarian entree. All I can say is that I’m glad I didn’t have to share the gnocchi. It’s made Roman-style, which I’d never encountered, and was lighter and fluffier than any potato, ricotta, or otherwise gnocchi I’ve ever tried. Roman gnocchi is made with semolina, baked in a tray, cut into cubes and then pan-roasted. It was almost the texture of very pillowy polenta, with a bit of jiggle and a bit of crumble. Bright hazelnut pesto was the perfect accompaniment. I’ll be thinking about this dish (and probably trying to recreate it) for a while.

Oh so fluffy gnocchi

Oh so fluffy gnocchi

I’m glad we saved room to share dessert but later wished we had actually ordered two. The dessert menu is pretty darn big when compared with the dinner menu, with offerings like semolina almond cake with lemon butter and a chocolate espresso budino. We chose well with the pine nut tart and creme fraiche gelato:

Pine nut tart with creme fraiche gelato

Pine nut tart with creme fraiche gelato

The gelato was what I imagine frozen yogurt really ought to be, rich and boldly tart. When melted over the sweet pecan pie-like tart, a ridiculously good honey flavor emerged, kind of like what happens with some white wine and cheese combinations. Cue the goofy satisfied grin.

Get yourself to the Red Hen for your own happy-place-happy-face!

1822 First St NW (near Rhode Island Ave)
202-525-3021

Woodland’s – Plan Your Buffet Strategy

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Masala dosa with sambar and coconut chutney

Masala dosa with sambar and coconut chutney (Photo from woodlands website)

When I find myself in an Indian restaurant, even the wonderful Rasika, I am usually a bit saddened at the lack of true south Indian food on the menu. Dosa, idli, sambar, simple stir-fried vegetable dishes, rice and all sorts of beans and lentils were what I ate growing up. Thankfully, whenever I get a hankering for good South Indian food (and don’t feel like making it myself), I can always head to the ‘burbs for Woodlands.

Woodland's, situated in a strip mall (so you know it'll be good).

Woodland’s, situated in a strip mall (so you know it’ll be good).

You’ll find this all-vegetarian gem at the edge of an unassuming strip mall, where the best non-Western ethnic food is often found. Getting there is easy enough if you’ve got a car, but it’s worth taking a train and a bus if you have to. The weekend buffet is a must on your first trip to Woodland’s. Sample dozens of tasty dishes and go for seconds of whatever you like. That way, ordering a la carte on any subsequent visits (and you’ll want to go again) won’t be so daunting.

A coy glance from Radha

A coy glance from Radha. Because, why not?

We started with the artfully-presented pav bhaji, a spicy roasted mix of potatoes and vegetables (bhaji) that you slather on top of buttery toasted buns (pav). Make sure to top your creation with some of the chopped onion that surrounds the bhaji.

Giant pav bhaji on a skillet

Giant pav bhaji sizzling on a skillet

The trick here is to avoid overloading on any one dish or trying to pile every dish on your plate during your first round. You can get more later. Next (and we’re still in snack/appetizer-land here) came the chaat table. The word “chaat” describes a variety of savory street-snacks, including pani puri (tiny, crispy puffed breads that you stuff with chick peas, potatoes, onions and tomatoes and fill with thin cilantro-mint chutney and gobble in one go), bhel puri (puffed rice with spicy chick-pea-flour chips, potatoes, tomatoes and chutneys), and papri chaat (fried wheat chips with the same garnishes).

Pani puri and papri chat table

Pani puri, bhel puri, and papri chaat table

Time for some real south Indian main-dish items, and this is why you’ve got to pace yourself. You might have to hover covertly around the buffet for them to bring out fresh dosas and uttapams, which are different kinds of rice-and-white-lentil pancakes. Get at least one fluffy, white idli too while you’re at it.

Don’t miss the poriyal, a stir-fried vegetable (often beets, cabbage, or green beans) with coconut or the paneer makhani (fresh cheese with creamy tomato sauce). Channa palak (chick peas and spinach) and Gobi manchurian (Indian-chinese fried cauliflower in a hot-and-sour sauce) were tasty as well.

North Indian dishes (and south Indian beet poriyal)

North Indian dishes (and south Indian beet poriyal)

Our most attractive plate

Our most attractive plate, with curries, rice and poori (fried bread)

As hard as it is, save room for dessert – especially if you see gulab jamuns.  A giant dish of these tempting doughnut-hole-like balls floating in cardomom-infused sugar syrup was waiting for us at the end of the buffet, and we went for it.

omg gulab jamuns

omg gulab jamuns

So anytime you feel like you need to eat All The Things or maybe just want to go where you can eat everything on the menu and everyone knows that vegetarian food is filling and varied, head to Woodlands.

Woodland’s
8046 New Hampshire Avenue
Langley Park, MD 20783

Table your errands for brunch at…Table!

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Frederik de Pue’s simple yet elegant Table was so enjoyable for dinner that I couldn’t wait to check out the newly debuted multi-course brunch and patio seating area. A friend was in town a couple of weeks ago, giving me the perfect excuse to indulge.

We munched on a cute Nutella-filled brioche and mini croissant baked with honey while perusing handwritten menus. Warning: the pastries are almost Too Small to Share. Luckily I was the only Nutellahead in the group so we didn’t come to blows.

Pastries

Potential conflict-inducing pastries

What I love about Table is that seemingly mundane items are so perfectly executed. Case in point: the only vegetarian first course is a yogurt parfait. Yawn, right? But it turned out to be the BEST THING ON THE MENU.

The homemade yogurt is creamy and tangy and flecked with vanilla bean. It’s topped with nutty homemade granola and served with fresh mango. It is heaven.

Heavenly yogurt parfait

Heavenly yogurt parfait

Also outstanding (and not just because of the adorable ‘cocotte’) is the baked egg en cocotte. Break through the surface to bathe the egg, tarragon and wild mushroom mixture in a mustard sherry sauce.

Baked egg

Baked egg

Moist, dense french toast was almost the texture of bread pudding, with bananas baked right in and a dollop of not-too-sweet whipped peanut butter on top.

Peanut butter banana stuffed french toast

Peanut butter banana stuffed french toast

The buckwheat crepe, stuffed with pears and goat cheese and topped with grapefruit, walnuts and honey, was actually the least exciting of our dishes. Although the salty/sweet pairing of cheese with fruit was pleasant, there wasn’t enough sauce to perk up the flavors and bring it all together.

Buckwheat crepes

Buckwheat crepes

With multiple courses and relaxed atmosphere, Table is the perfect place for a leisurely, indulgent, but not overly heavy weekend brunch. Throw in a bottle of bubbly under $40 and be prepared to while away your afternoon in a most civilized fashion.

903 N St NW
202-588-5200

Balkan bites at Ambar

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[Photo: Ambar]

Ambar, Capitol Hill’s newish Balkan restaurant, piqued our interest a couple of months ago when we saw a good number of meat-free items on the menu (from what we could tell, at least. It turns out that multiple shades of grey don’t always make for an easy read).

Thankfully paper menus provided better contrast for our rheumy over-30 eyes, and we settled in at a casual table upstairs to make some choices. We started with a mix of cornbread and fried sourdough in the bread basket, accompanied by three spreads: sweet red pepper, buttery cheese, and a spicy mixture of red pepper with cheese. The combination was by far our favorite, zippy and creamy with chunks of what tasted like a cross between cottage cheese and ricotta. Both breads were nice although the sourdough was on the greasy side.

Breads n’ spreads

Amongst the four of us we ended up ordering most of the vegetarian plates under the soup/salad, pastries and vegetables sections of the menu. A few additional items like grilled asparagus could be made vegetarian by omitting bacon etc, but we didn’t order them.

Oozy crepes stuffed with gouda, bechamel and sauteed mushrooms were flavorful and satisfying.

Mushroom crepes

Mushroom crepes

Cheese pies were fluffy – a welcome change from the denser, saltier Greek version – and surprisingly well-complemented by fresh cucumber yogurt.

Cheese pie

Cheese pie

Red peppers stuffed with that fresh cottage/ricotta-like cheese and drizzled with cranberry sauce were exceptional, especially with bites of roasted eggplant puree.

Stuffed red pepper

Stuffed red pepper

Not all dishes were a hit. We found the leek croquettes a bit heavy and bland without a bright garnish or side to pick them up.

Leek croquettes

Leek croquettes

Butternut squash potage was also unremarkable, although the dollop of leek puree on top was a nice touch.

Butternut squash potage

Butternut squash potage

Desserts like ‘the four chocolates’ and ‘forest gnocchi’ sounded intriguing but complicated, and we passed them over for what seemed like a simpler choice, Balkan apple pie. The presentation was gorgeous and many of the components were tasty – phyllo cigars filled with fruit, towers of caramel mousse, and blobs of apple gelee. However, they didn’t meld and the overall effect was more fussy than rich, melty and comforting. It might have just been our mood though, because the pop tarts, chocolate pie and giant shakes we downed at Ted’s Bulletin for second dessert (!) hit all the spots.

Balkan apple pie

Balkan apple pie was a little too beautiful

Ambar is a lovely addition to Barracks Row and the DC dining scene. Service is welcoming even during busy times and although the menu is meat-centered, most vegetarian items are unique and thoughtfully executed.

523 8th St SE
(202) 813-3039

Getting raw with spring salads

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This spring I’ve been expanding my salad repertoire by trying a few raw recipes with vegetables I’d normally cook. Shredding or thinly slicing and an acidic or garlicky dressing softens the textures and flavors of raw vegetables while maintaining their crunch.

Here are a few of my favorites, featuring brussel sprouts, kale, and asparagus. The dressings can be stored in the refrigerator but only wash and prepare the vegetables you’ll be eating right away – they don’t keep as well once cut (especially the brussel sprouts).

Shaved brussel sprout salad with hazelnuts and parmesan
Adapted from Love and Olive Oil

1 1b brussel sprouts
1-2 oz parmesan, grated (about 1/2 cup) or pecorino, romano, gruyere…
1/3 cup toasted and chopped hazelnuts or walnuts
3 tbsp apple cider vinegar
1 tbsp honey
4 tbsp olive oil
salt and pepper

Wash brussel sprouts and chop the ends off. Shred by very finely slicing with a sharp knife or using the grating/slicing disc on a food processor. Toss with cheese and nuts in a large bowl.

Whisk vinegar, honey, olive oil and salt and pepper (go easy on the salt since the cheese will provide quite a bit) in a small bowl. Pour over salad, combine, and let rest for at least 15 minutes before serving.

Serves 4-6.

Kale salad with warm balsamic honey dressing
Adapted from Whole Living

1 bunch kale, large stems removed and leaves chopped
1 can (15 ounces) garbanzo beans, drained and rinsed
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
2 tablespoons honey
1 large shallot, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, minced
Salt and pepper

Heat oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add shallot and garlic and cook until slightly softened. Add vinegars and honey and bring to a gentle boil. Immediately pour hot dressing over kale. Toss with beans, cover, and let stand for 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper before serving.

Serves 4.

The next two salads use a buttermilk dressing from 101 Cookbooks, a fantastic vegetarian recipe site for those of you who aren’t familiar.

Kale salad with carrots, pepitas, and buttermilk dressing

1 bunch kale, large stems removed and leaves chopped
1/3 cup toasted pepitas
3-4 carrots, peeled and thinly sliced OR cubed and roasted with some salt, pepper, and olive oil
1 clove garlic, crushed
1/2 -1 tsp salt
2/3 cup buttermilk
1-2 tbsp red or white wine vinegar
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1/2 tsp ground cumin or coriander
Black pepper

Combine garlic, buttermilk, salt, vinegar, olive oil and spices in a jar Shake well, then taste and adjust salt and vinegar. Toss with kale to taste (you may have some leftover dressing). Top with carrots and pepitas.

Serves 4.

Asparagus salad with radishes, pistachios, and buttermilk dressing

1 lb asparagus, trimmed
1/3 cup pistachios, toasted and chopped
1/2 to 1 cup chopped cilantro
4-5 radishes, sliced very thinly
1 clove garlic, crushed
1/2 -1 tsp salt
2/3 cup buttermilk
1-2 tbsp red or white wine vinegar
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
Black pepper

Combine garlic, buttermilk, salt, vinegar, olive oil and pepper in a jar. Shake well and adjust salt and vinegar.

Slice asparagus thinly (1/8 – 1/4 inches thick) at an angle OR shave into strips using a potato peeler (I’ve never had success with this – maybe I don’t have the right peeler?). Toss with sliced radishes and cilantro. Add dressing to taste (you may have some leftover dressing). Top with pistachios and serve.

Serves 4.

Sweets reign at Le Diplomate

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We stepped into Le Diplomate in Logan Circle this week, ready to be charmed by its little-piece-of-Paris atmosphere but, with only one vegetarian entree on the menu, unsure of how the meal would go.

Despite being filled to capacity (expect to make a reservation a couple weeks in advance), Le Diplomate’s hosts and servers were friendly and efficient. The generous bread basket came with slices of cranberry nut, baguette, and brown bread and a pot of outstanding fresh tangy butter.

A handful of the appetizers are vegetarian, so we decided to make a meal of the mushroom tart, ricotta ravioli, salade verte, and herb omelet.

Mushroom tart

Mushroom tart

The tart, with a crumbling flaky crust topped with delicate pioppino mushrooms and pecorino, was so rich and satisfying that it might actually be hard to finish on one’s own.

Salade verte

Salade verte

Enter salad to balance things out. The salade verte was gorgeous, composed of buttery lettuces, rainbow radishes and tiny haricot verts. Red wine vinaigrette accentuated its freshness without overwhelming the tender vegetables.

Ricotta ravioli

Ricotta ravioli

Ricotta ravioli was cooked just right with fresh cheese inside but the tomato sauce and overall flavors were unremarkable. Similarly, the omelet, which ought to really stand out as the only vegetarian entree in a French restaurant, was fine but not among the best I’ve had, or even something I’ll remember.

Omelet

Omelet

Our best decision came at the end of the meal when we splurged on three desserts. The pastry chef pays glorious tribute to classics – think crème brûlée, napoléons, and pots de crème.

Normally I’m not a crème brûlée person, but something about this one did it for me. I think there was the right amount of vanilla bean to make each mouthful flavorful rather than just creamy:

Crème brûlée

The tart tatin looked humble but with both the crust and apples were perfectly browned, it was like everything had been steeped in burnt caramel:

Tart tatin

Tart tatin

The beautiful dark chocolate napoléon balanced cream and crunch:

Dark chocolate napoléon

As full as we were, not a single bite of any of it went to waste. And honestly, if the desserts hadn’t been so fantastic, we wouldn’t be rushing back any time soon.

So unless or until more vegetarian entrees appear on the menu, how should one approach Le Diplomate? 1. Get your sweet tooth primed 2. Start with salad (we’ve got our eye on that radish crudité with butter) 3. Nibble on a cheesy mushroom tart or macaroni au gratin 4. Hit the patisserie section. Hard. Voilà!

1601 14th St NW
202-332-3333

Soba noodles with eggplant and tofu

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This eggplant tofu noodle dish is completely addictive, with a complex flavor that’s more than the sum of its parts. It tastes even better on the second or third day which means it puts an extra big smile on my face when I open my lunch at the end of the week. The recipe is from Deborah Madison’s Greens Cookbook with a few adjustments and substitutions – less salt, more vegetables, soba instead of egg noodles, and the addition of tofu. Sauteed broccoli or mushrooms instead of eggplant would be a great variation as well.

Marinade
7 tbsp dark sesame oil
7 tbsp soy sauce
3 tbsp balsamic vinegar
4 tbsp sugar (I like to use brown), dissolved in 2 tbsp warm water
1-2 tsp salt (go easy first and add more later)
1 tbsp chili oil
10 scallions, white and 2/3 of green parts thinly sliced
1/4 cup chopped cilantro

Vegetables and noodles
1 1/2 lbs eggplant (about 2 small/medium or 1 very large eggplant)
8 oz dry soba noodles
1 package extra firm tofu, drained
4 tbsp oil for frying
1-2 cups snow peas, strings removed
2 medium carrots, peeled
1 tbsp fresh grated ginger
2 cloves garlic, crushed

Garnish
A few tbsp chopped cilantro
optional: 1/4 cup sesame seeds or 1/2 cup roasted chopped peanuts

Preheat the oven to 400 F. Pierce the eggplant(s) in several places and bake until they are soft and skins start to shrivel.

In the mean time, boil the snow peas in a large pot of water for just a couple of minutes until they turn bright green and tender. Remove and rinse with cold water in a colander. Add noodles to boiling water and cook for about 5 minutes, until done. Drain and rinse with cold water, then spread noodles out on a towel to keep them from sticking.

Combine the marinade ingredients and stir well. Put the noodles in a large bowl and toss with about half of the marinade. Set aside.

Soba noodles with marinade

Soba noodles with marinade

Cut the tofu into 1/4 inch thick slabs and pan fry in a few tablespoons of oil over high heat until both sides are golden brown. I usually do this in a few batches so it’s easier to turn them over.

Pan-frying tofu

Pan-frying tofu

When the eggplant is cool, peel and cut into 1/4 inch strips. Toss eggplant and tofu with the remaining marinade, garlic and ginger in a medium bowl.

Slice carrots and snow peas into thin strips. Add, along with marinated eggplant and tofu, to noodle bowl. Toss to combine. Garnish with cilantro and sesame seeds or peanuts, if using.

Serves 6, and tastes even better left over.

Arancini: The Only Way to Use Leftover Risotto

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Delicious risotto balls

Remember our post on the amazing risotto balls (suppli al telefono, aka arancini) at 2AMYS? Well, 2AMYS is pretty far from me and I realized I needed to eat suppli more often. And so do you. Plus, I had heard from various Italians that making the balls was really very simple.

Arancini have been appearing regularly at my house ever since I got into a) making risotto and b) deep-frying. Now, now, don’t run away just because I said deep-frying. If you do it right, meaning you use the right oil at the right temperature, deep-frying is not all that bad for you. If you’re afraid of oil splattering everywhere, get a good deep-fryer like this one from De Longhi. Even if you don’t eat fried foods that often, wouldn’t you rather fry what you do eat yourself?

It turns out that these yummy, impress-your-guest treats are disturbingly easy to make. You can even throw in bits of stale bread or leftover plain rice (add some salt if you do this) to use up other leftovers.

You will need:

3 cups cold risotto (any kind without large chunks of vegetables)
1 cup bread crumbs, divided
1 egg, beaten
20-25 1/4″ cubes of cheddar, mozzarella, or any melting cheese
Marinara sauce for dipping

The cheese goes in

The cheese goes in. Smaller (like 1/4″) cubes work best.

Put 1/2 cup of the breadcrumbs in a bowl and set aside. Line a baking sheet with wax paper so you have somewhere to put the balls as you form them. In a medium bowl, use your hands to mix the remaining breadcrumbs and beaten egg into the risotto.

Heat oil to 375 in a deep-fryer or on the stove with a candy thermometer.

Take a golf-ball-sized amount of risotto and put a cube of cheese in the middle. Roll to form a ball, then coat with reserved breadcrumbs. Repeat until you’ve used up all the risotto, placing coated balls on the wax-paper-lined baking sheet.

Arancini ready for frying

Deep-fry the balls, about five at a time, for five minutes per batch. Serve with hot marinara sauce for dipping. This recipe makes about 20 balls, serving 5-6 as an appetizer or 2-3 as a main dish.

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